How I fitted a second pump for running a Milemarker winch

Firstly, pick a pump. One option is to look to www.4x4winches.com who supply ZF pumps suitably modified to power the Milemarker. I "understand" they set the pump to 120 bar, or 1800 psi. I don't know what the pump is rated in terms of GPM, however the winch is supposed to have 4.8 tonnes first wrap pull, with 3 times the speed rating of the standard power steering pump.

I chose the 200tdi fitting kit. This comes in a big box.

Secondly, pick a day when you should be really doing something else. That keeps the mind focused. We picked the day before one of our off road trials when we really should have been checking the batteries and brakes in our off road machines.

Thirdly, rip the big box open with glee. Warning. There are small shiney things that will fly all around the place.

Fourthly, pick as many of the small shiney things that have flown all over the place as you can find. These are most likely located in the most improbable and impossible location.

Fifthly, lay out all your bits and pieces. Warning. Do not do this on the bonnet as you will have to move everything in a minute.

Sixthly, remove everything from the bonnet and open it up big. You'll be in there for a while so it might be worth taking it off.

Seventhly, document the pump brackets and model numbers etc. Do this before it gets dirty :)

Eightly, mount the pump onto the engine. This is different for all engines except a 200tdi without A/C, and that does not have ZEUS timing gears, please skip to step nine if your machine does not comply.

You may have bought the mounting brackets from a supplier. In this case belt away and bolt on as designed.

Double check the pully is running "true" with the pully on your engine that is going to be powering the pump. In my case it's about 2 or 3 mm out of true, so a bit of filing and "guntering" is called for.

Where you've got to make up a bracket, then you might know more than me. If you know more than me, then fire ahead. If you know less than me, get help, you should not be doing this :-)

If you know about the same as me, then it's probably best to fabricate a mountable plate/bar for your engine first. Fix this in place in a suitable location. This will allow you to accurately measure where the pump is going to be mounted.

On these pumps, there are 6 holes that are tapped for M8 bolts/studs. They are true with the pully, so if they are fixed to a plate that is true with the pulley then they will be in the same plane. Make up such a plate, and attach it to the pump.

Between this plate, and the plate you've fixed to your engine, you will want to have some adjustment to allow you to fit and tighten the belt that will drive this. If you've got serpentine belts, then your in fairly deep here.

These pics of the engine and pump show one method of mounting.

Ninethly, figure your oil cooler if you are fitting one. Some opinions say not to fit one, and some say you should. They are cheap and in case you need it even once, go ahead and fit one.

Mine is going in front of the radiator for the following reasons:

1. Easy to install.
   
2. Safe place where it won't get knocked about.
   
3. It's cold here and I don't mind restricting the radiator slightly as it rarely gets hot.
   
4. When it gets hot, I'm usually deep in mud and am going to have to winch anyway.
   
5. When winching, I can turn on the fan and keep air sucking through the cooler.

The oil cooler comes with a mounting kit that has plastic "bolts" that are supposed to run through the radiator cores. I didn't like this idea as they are a little thick for the tubes of a Landy radiator and over time, certainly could do no good.

So, 2 new mounting brackets were fabricated to fit the oil cooler hole pattern. The hole pattern is not symetrical so be careful when marking this out. Don't ask how I know :-(

My mounting bracket is basically 2 pieces of flat steel that are now welded to the 2 diagonal bars that are in front of the radiator. The oil cooler is mounted behind these and is held in place using steel bolts (M6's). There are large 1/2" thick rubber pads between the metal brackets and the oil cooler itself.

Tenthly, find a mounting place for the remote oil reservoir. There's just a bit of space beween the brake master cylinder and the water expansion tank for the engine. Nice and tidy, and on mine it leaves all reservoirs along one wing.

Eleventhly, fit the hydraulic hoses. Because the solenoids to control the oil are mounted on the opposite wing to the pump, and as I wanted a tidy route for the pipe to run, longer pipe than the one supplied was needed.

Enter Edwin, who regularly makes up hoses for agricultural purposes to 10,000 psi rating. That will do nicely thank you. Edwin measured the hose in place, cut off the required distance and crimped on the appropriate fittings.

In this picture, the top hose is the high pressure supply and the bottom one is the low pressure return.

Twelfthly(?), test the whole setup.

Serious Warning. Be very careful of high pressure leaks, as they can be almost invisible. If you get hydraulic oil injected into you at high pressure, you could get a very nasty infection.

Once you are happy with all your connections, off you go for some happy winching :-)

The usual disclaimers apply to the information given on this page. These have been my own experiences of fitting this equipment, and you replicate them at your own peril!